The Cool Grove Charnel Ground: Sitavana
Northeast of Bodh Gaya lies Sitavana, the Cool Grove—a site woven into the fabric of Indian Buddhism and the tantric tradition. Revered as one of the eight great charnel grounds, Sitavana has long been a place where spiritual seekers confront impermanence and the realities of life and death.
On the surface, a charnel ground (śmaśāna) is simply a place where bodies are left to decompose, by cremation or burial. But for vajrayana practitioners it’s much more. The charnel ground is not just a place of death and decay, but a place where all our concepts are stripped away, leaving us face-to-face with the end of attachment to this body and life, fear of death, and aversion to the decay of impermanence. These places are traditionally described as both terrifying and strangely peaceful—haunted by spirits and wild beasts, yet also filled with wildflowers, birdsong, and a vast, open sky.
The great Mahasiddhas Guru Padmasambhava, Hungkara, and Shavaripa practiced here, embracing the challenges of the charnel ground to deepen their realization. Vajrayana texts and songs of realization often describe such places as where dakas and dakinis gather for tantric feasts (ganachakra) and where the boundaries between purity and impurity, are transcended.
The Mahakala Caves: Dungeshwari Cave Temples
About 12 kilometers northeast of Bodh Gaya, the Dungeshwari Cave Temples—also known as the Mahakala Caves or Pragbodhi Caves—are carved into the hills. These ancient sanctuaries are closely linked to the early life of Siddhartha Gautama before he became the Buddha
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The caves are believed to be where Siddhartha spent six years practicing severe asceticism, pushing himself to the limits of human life. It was here that he realized that extreme self-denial was not the path to liberation. After accepting a meal from a young local woman Sujata he left the caves, understanding that balance was essential. This insight led him to Bodh Gaya and, ultimately, to enlightenment under the Bodhi tree
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In one cave there is statue of the emaciated Buddha, capturing the intensity of his ascetic practices— a good place to practice and make offereings. Another cave features a larger Buddha statue, marking his spiritual journey. A chamber with a Hindu Shrine dedicated to the goddess Dungeshwari, shows the site’s significance for both Buddhists and Hindus.
The caves, some dating back to the 3rd century BCE, are carved from granite and feature intricate details. Their hilltop setting offers sweeping views of the countryside.